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PRESERVATION GUIDELINE 1 Division for Archaeology and Historic Preservation Virgin Islands Department of Planning and Natural Resources SIGNS IN HISTORIC DISTRICTS Signs are important features of historic buildings and other r*) ‘ Thomas Historically, signs in commercial areas were kept simple and were few in number. buildings in historic districts. They are also features subject to frequent replacement and change. Their design, even if changed often, is extremely important to the character of any building and thus to the historic districts as a whole. Keep Signs Small The most important considerations for signs in historic dis- tricts are that they should relate in terms of scale and design to the streetscape and to the building itself. Typical modern commercial signs are often oversized, competing for attention with other signs and trying, usually, to catch the eye of passing Historic view of King’s Wharf, Charlotte Amalie. Note the C.W. Smith sign. motorists. In a historic district, such attention-grabbing signs are unnecessary. Businesses are known by reputation or are sought out by customers by word-of-mouth. Also, historic districts are usually pedestrian in scale and orientation, and signs should reflect this pattern. Put simply,signs in historic districts should be small and attract through quality, craftsman- ship, and materials -- not through size or flashiness. Lighting for Signs Another concern is lighting. Signs in historic districts, while they need not be traditional in form or design, should rely A shielded light fix. 02 traditional lighting techniques. Inter- ture, with cither in- nally-illuminated signs are strictly pee nie pote prohibited, as are larger neon signs or pag duate lighting for flashing signs. All signs, both flush signs businesses. SIP eS = = Catone ee S pS Hidden lights _e - directed up ata flush sign. This method = - : of mounting lighting __D. O. Bornn and Sons. A traditional painted sign fixtures cuts down that maintains the more traditionally utilitarian char- on street glare. acter of the Charlotte Amalie historic didtrict. placed against buildings and hanging signs, should be lighted by simple direct spotlights or simple, shielded light bulbs. Lights should be directed upward or downward but should not be glaring. Lighting should do little more than light the sign itself. Numbers of Signs Finally there is the problem of the numbers of signs. Too many signs will overpower both a business and a building. One hanging sign and one sign flush on the wall of a building should be sufficient for any business. The following are broad guidelines for sign design. Individual designs should be discussed with representatives of the Virgin Islands Department of Planning and Natural Resources Division for Archaeology and Historic Preservation. Simple changes may be approved by staff officers. More often, sign changes will require approval by the Historic Preservation Commissions for either St. Thomas/St. J ohn or St. Crow. DEFINITIONS Flush Signs: Flush signs are placed flat against the wall of a building or against section of a building, such as the arcade wall. Flush signs may be painted either directly on the building or be mounted on a board or other material attached to the building. A flush sign may also consist of separate, individually-mounted letters. Hanging Signs: Hanging signs are attached to the building, either hung perpendicular to the street or sometimes parallel to the street along an arcade. Directories: Directories are composite signs, identifying busi- nesses in courtyards, alleyways, or along whole streets. They are usually put up through the coordinated efforts of several owners to advertise businesses cut off from normal pedestrian traffic. Door-leaf Signs: Door-leaf signs are advertising signs attached directly to leaves of doors. Door-leaf signs detract from the historic character of many buildings and are discouraged. Within carefully defined limits, they are permitted. FLUSH SIGNS Size: A flush sign can be no larger than 20 square feet. Most flush signs should be much smaller, no more than 1x 5 feet. The Architectural features such as those exhibited on these buildings should not be obscured by signs. Choose sign locations carefully. size of the sign is determined in part by context. Existing architectural fea- tures, such as recessed wall panels or doorways, often suggest the size and form that a flush sign should take. Placement: A flush sign should be placed in such a way as to comple- ment, rather than detract, from the building on which it hangs. Owners should take other signs on the build- ing into account before hanging their own. Signs should not obscure win- dow openings, cornices, or other building features. Recommended flush sign locations. Avoid obscuring architectural details. Materials: Flush signs ideally should be painted on a flat board and then attached to the building. In some cases, signs may be painted directly on the building, although this treatment generally is not encouraged. Individual letters may also be used. details. Wood or metal are recom- The worst case scenario! | signs; signs have no relation to one- another; Too many signs obscure architectural mended materials, but acrylic, pressed board, or fiberglass are all alterna- tive materials. Signs, how- ever, should be custom designed and owners should avoid standard, company-produced signs. Individual letters, as opposed to board- mounted flush sa are also acceptable. ine The total area de d by the letters, how- ever, must still conform to maximum size limitations of 20 square feet. HANGING SIGNS se should fall below architectural details. They may proiect slightly from the outer wall plane. Signs must be at least 8 feet above sidewalks to allow unobstructed movement by pedestrians. Materials: Ideally a hanging sign should be constructed of wood, either boards or high-grade plywood or pressed board and be custom painted. Other materials, such as metal, acrylic, or fiberglass, can also be considered. Placement: Hanging signs should be hung in such a way as to comple- ment a building. Again, the impact of other signs should be taken into account. An attempt should be made to line signs up with one another. A hanging sign should allow for pedestrians to pass easily Size: No hanging sign should be more than 10 feet square; 2 x 2 or 2x3 feet is generally sufficient. Hanging signs smaller this are recommended. To determine the size, other signs on a building should be taken into account. New signs should closely match those already on a building or , if existing signs are irregular or oversized, set better standards. A variety of materials and designs are acceptable for hang- ing signs. Signs can be either "traditional" or more modern in character (as in the example on the bottom). beneath. The sign should be no less than 8 feet above the walkway. Mounting: Signs should be hung in a traditional way, from wood or metal brackets. Many Virgin Islands hanging signs were traditionally attached to the outer walls of arcades. Signs should not be placed directly on building roofs or arcade roofs but should be attached to arcade piers or posts or to wall surfaces of arcades. Another traditional location for hanging signs is between supporting posts or within the openings of masonry arcades. Care should be taken, however, to ensure that pedestrians can pass under them. DIRECTORIES Directories are usually hung at the entrance to an alley or courtyard to draw attention to businesses that would otherwise be out of public view. They should be constructed of wood or other traditional materials, and allow for the substitution of identification tags as businesses change or new businesses are estab- lished. Size: A single directory should be no larger than three by four feet. Two by three feet should be sufficient in most cases. Tags identify- ing individual businesses should be no larger than 2 by 12 inches; smaller tags are recommended in many cases. A good example of an alley-way direc- tory. DOOR-LEAF SIGNS Door-leaf signs are attached to individual leaves of warehouse type doors to advertise mer- chandise or specific = ates Oe products sold. They should \— (i be limited in number and _ i must be uniform in character SPE | SIF and materials. oe | Ee afi i" B Size: A maximum size of 24 1 SS = square inches (2 x 12 inches) i is allowed for each individual <a 5 sign. A maximum of five (5) per door is permissible. _ Door-leaf signs are permitted on the insides of storm doors only. A maxi- mum of 5 separate tags are allowed. Materials: Wood or metal are preferable. Acrylic tags are also permissible. /- 3 ee 2 Double Distilled BAY RUM MANUFACTURED RY THOS. HASSELL wt St. Thomas, D. W. I. ‘Good sign Seams is an art - one that has a lon history in the Virgin Islands- above is a well- designed and high-quality sign. For further information contact: Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.I. State Historic Preservation Office Dronningens Gade 71 & 72A St. Thomas, Virgin Islands 00802 (340)776-8605 Tel (340)776-7236 Fax or Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.I. State Historic Preservation Office Fort Frederik Museum 198 Strand Street St. Croix, Virgin Islands 00840 (340)719-7089 Tel (340)719-8343 Fax Produced by William Chapman Layout by Jeanne Strong PRESERVATION GUIDELINE 2 Division for Archaeology and Historic Preservation Virgin Islands Department of Planning and Natural Resources PAINT COLORS AND MATERIALS Traditional Colors Paint colors and the ways paints are applied are important to the character of historic buildings. Owners are encouraged to use traditional colors in historic districts especially to help preserve a sense of order and continuity. Walls: White - Ivory - Cream - —> Yellow - Gold - Linen - Peach Trim: White Shutters: Green - Gray - Red - White Louvers: Green - White Roof: Red - Silver Walls: Gold - Yellow - Cream - ee Ivory - White - Linen - Gray - Peach Jf. |! Trim: White i] aq ae Shutters: Green - Gray - Red - [J O, i CC] Ly it | «= Louvers: Green - White Roof: Red - Silver pore Paint colors in the Yoo Islands have traditionally been conservative - whites, grays, yellows and terra cottas. It is important to preserve these Walls: White - Ivory - Cream - meses uo - -“~\-Yellow- Gold - Linen - Gray - 4 aS = Peach Paint colors in the Virgin Islands were traditionally conserva- Pale 1 | Pak ° Bins ~ Green tive. Most masonry buildings were given coats of lime wash, | i tt Trim: White usually white, but sometimes tinted a yellow gold or pinkish to il l HA bi fi Shutters: Gray - Green - Red - terra-cotta red. Wood buildings also were painted or washed | FS fs White white, with other colors, such as gray, becoming more popular Louvers: Gr cen - White during the late 19th century. Shutters and jalousies (interior Roof: Red - Silver blinds) were usually red, green, or white; roofs were tradition- ally dark, iron-oxide red. Modern wall colors such as green, bright pink, or blue were never used, before the post-World War II era. However, they are often now considered "ap- propriate" for smaller scale buildin gs, ie ee both sores we one color) ite - Ivory - Cream - Yellow - Paint colors are very important to the overall appearance of a PY a Gold - Linen - Gray - P each historic area and do much to convey an impression of pride and rad \_ Walls: (If each story is different) care for a building. Most importantly, owners should be aware Eh =q7 GroundFloor: White - Ivory of the impact of their paint colors on the appearance of their ie Ld ipa Second Story: Cream - Yellow - street or neighborhood and consider their neighbors when jas Gold - Linen - Gray - Peach making a selection. | a Trim: White The following are recommended color schemes. LTH | eS a s: Green - Red - Gray - : Ee te Louvers: Green - White Roof: Red - Silver Recommended color schemes. Traditional Paint Treatments Masonry The best paint to use for masonry buildings is a simple lime wash, made up of slaked hydrated lime, water and ideally an organic tint. This method requires often annual maintenance, however, but nonetheless can be successful. The addition of white Portland from upper let? piston, peeling cement to the mixture can help alligatoring, wrinkling. Blistering ‘ suggests a problem with materials. to prolong the life of a wash, Peeling usually means moisture. Al- however, cutting down on [igatoring is a result of excess paint . z build-up. Removal may be required. maintenance requirements. Wrinkling also is a result of built-up. Wood Wood buildings should be carefully brushed and sanded and then given a coat or two coats of a good quality alkyd paint (oil-based) or a high-quality acrylic latex paint. Generally, oil paint causes less build-up than acrylic latex or latex paint and for many wood buildings is often longer lasting (though recent improvements in latex technology is beginning to change this). Sanding should be done by hand or with a pad sander. Belt and disc sanding gouge wood surfaces and alter their ap- pearance. Always hand sand or use an orbital sander to feather edges. Scraping with a wire brush or putty knife is usually sufficient for preparation. More Typical Modern Treatments In the absence of a traditional treatment, flat acrylic latex or latex paints can be substituted for masonry buildings and oil paint or high quality acrylic latex for wood. For masonry walls a more ex- pensive latex acrylic as opposed to a lower acrylic content latex paint is definitely recommended. Acrylic paints allow for some evaporation from the walls and therefore are less apt to flake or fall off in the course of Chemical strippers can be ‘he walls normal wetting and drying used for build-up problem processes. Colors can be selected to areas On wood. ane ° closely resemble traditional lime washes or oil paints. Oil paints and high-gloss latex paints are definitely not recommended for masonry walls. A good paint job (or for shingles often a good stain) can help preserve an older building indefinitely. For further information contact: Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.1. State Historic Preservation Office Dronningens Gade 71 & 72A St. Thomas, Virgin Islands 00802 (340)776-8605 Tel (340)776-7236 Fax or Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.1. State Historic Preservation Office Fort Frederik Museum 198 Strand Street St. Croix, Virgin Islands 00840 (340)719-7089 Tel __(340)719-8343 Fax _ Prepared By William Chapman Layout by Jeanne Strong PRESERVATION GUIDELINE 3 Division for Archaeology and Historic Preservation Virgin Islands Department of Planning and Natural Resources Holy Cross Roman Catholic Church. One of many plaster-covered buildings in the Virgin Islands. A large percentage of the historic buildings in the Virgin Islands are constructed of rubble-masonry, covered with lime plaster or "stucco." This is a building technique of age-old origins and the building technique of choice throughout the Mediterranean region (from which, in many ways, Caribbean buildings take the lead) for many thousands of years. The historic procedure was a simple one: rough-cut or simple fieldstone was built up in uneven courses to form thick support- ing walls. Brick or cut-stone was used for corners and to provide a sharper edge for window and door openings. The whole wall was then covered with several coats of lime plaster, then either troweled smooth or scored to resemble the ashlar or (cut-stone) walls that these less-expensive walls clearly im- itated. The rich detail of many “high-style" buildings in the Virgin Islands is achieved through molded exterior plaster or stucco. PLASTER-COVERED RUBBLE WALLS Preserving Existing Walls The key to preserving plaster-covered rubble walls is constant maintenance. The walls themselves are usually strong but are weakened by penetration of water, either from above through leaking walls or through damp ground. If problems exist - as shown through bulging or scaling of the wall - the first step is to look for the source of dampness. Steps should then be taken to keep the walls dry, either by repairing the faulty roof, gutters, or flashing, or by providing for better drainage at the base. A simple bed of loose gravel can often help in the latter instance, new gutters or flashing can help stop problem leaking. Typical damp conditions. Water is “wicked” through walls, leaving salt deposits and causing surface scaling. The provision of a damp-proof course as shown on the right, can help cut down on moisture problems. Improved drainage, in the form of gravel-filled trenches can help cut down on moisture problems. Such treatments, however, are often dif- ficult in urban situations. After solving the moisture problems the next step is simply to patch the wall as necessary. If the whole lime-plaster surface is failing, it may be necessary to chip the plaster from the walls and then resurface. Care must be taken to match the ap- pearance, texture, design details, and thickness of the original plaster covering. Cutting in a damp-proof course with a circular masonry saw. A rela- tively expensive and difficult proce- dure. Chemical injection to provide a damp-proof course. Still largely un- tested in the Virgin Islands. It is essential that details such as quoins and molding profiles be duplicated when replacing plaster. Do not use Portland or ready-mixed cement: Many people choose to replace the plaster or patch it with a Portland cement compound. This procedure is definitely not recommended. Portland cement is simply too hard and does not allow for proper evaporation from the walls, resulting in unwanted moisture build-up. A certain amount of white Portland may be added to the lime plaster, but this is not in fact necessary. Ready-mixed cement compounds are not ap- propriate for historic buildings. The following is the recommended mix: MORTAR A) Portland cement: ASTM C 150, Type 1, White B) Lime: ASTM C207, Type S, high plasticity C) Sand: ASTM C144, fine washed D) Admixture: Use a water reducing and plasticizing agent to reduce water content and drying shrinkage, "Omicron Mor- tar proofing," a product of Master Builders Company or equivalent. Follow manufacturer’s instructions for use. E) Potable water: Free of impurities and organic material. Be sure to match the texture and overall character of the original walls in both repairs and replacement. RS a PROPORTIONING A) 1 part White Portland cement; 5 parts lime, 9-10 parts sand, recommended mix. A higher lime content is also possible and in many cases desirable. B) Sample areas should be tested and examined by the ar- chitect or supervisor prior to settling on the final mix. Variations of this specification are allowable, and the staff of the Division for Archaeology and Historic Preservation are happy to discuss alternative mortar mixes with owners. The important thing is that the nature of these historic wall surfaces be under- stood and that steps be taken to encourage their preservation and continued use. Wholesale Plaster Removal Not Permitted Another concern is the removal of plaster. Rubble-masonry walls were meant to be plastered and protected from the ele- ments. The workmanship of the rubble masonry wall, while picturesque to our eyes, was never meant to be seen. This is true for both interior and exterior walls. Much damage is caused to walls from which plaster is removed. As a result, this treatment is not permitted. Waterproofing Not Recommended A final concern is waterproof coverings. Such coverings, usually silicones or polyurethanes, are often applied to protect previously plastered rubble walls. They can have both a visual and material impact on walls. The main concern is such cover- ings often discolor walls and do not allow for the normal evaporation cycle causing, therefore, a build-up of salts within walls. It is highly recommended that such coverings not be applied. For further information contact: - Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.1. State Historic Preservation Office Dronningens Gade 71 & 72A St. Thomas, Virgin Islands 00840 (340)776-8605 Tel (340)776-7236 Fax or Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.I. State Historic Preservation Office Fort Frederik Museum 198 Strand Street St. Croix, Virgin Islands 00840 (340)719-7089 Tel (340)719-8343 Fax Prepared by William Chapman Layout by Jeanne Strong PRESERVATION GUIDELINE 4 Division for Archaeology and Historic Resources Virgin Islands Department of Planning and Natural Resources REPAIR, CLEANING, AND REPOINTING OF BRICK WALLS There are few brick or brick-faced buildings in the Virgin Islands. However, there are a number of outstanding examples of mainly 19th-century brick buildings, mostly located in com- mercial areas. While problems of treatment come up rarely, greater care than ever must be taken for the preservation of these buildings. drainage. Badly damaged or deteriorated brick, should be replaced in kind with bricks resembling the original (or in some cases, original bricks can be turned around to expose less deteriorated faces). All mortar joints should be sound and well-maintained. Although brick buildings are rare in the Virgin Islands, there are several outstanding examples. These are both on Kronprindsensgade, in Charlotte Amalie. General Problems Brick buildings often consist of brick veneers over rubble masonry cores. Whether all brick or brick-veneer, however, they share many of the characteristics of rubble walls. Initial concerns are water penetration into walls. Walls should be carefully examined for indications of leaking roofs or gutters or damp foundations. Efforts should then be made to correct such problems either by repairing roof problems or providing better ‘ a with rubble hho ca ’ : rick walls are subject a eee to moisture problems. else = —_s A damp-proof course can cut down on rising Mortar and Mortar Mixes It is important that the mortar for repair of deteriorated brick joints match the original. This usually means a high-lime-con- tent mortar following the following specifications: Mortar A) Portland cement: ASTM C 150, Type 1, White B) Lime: ASTM C 207, Type S, high plasticity C) Sand: ASTM C 144, fine washed D) Admixture: Use a water reducing and plasticizing agent to reduce water content and drying shrinkage. "Omicron Mor- tar proofing,” a producer of Master Buildings Company or Equivalent. Follow manufacturer’s instructions for use. damp. _Efflorescence, or surface salt deposits - caused by E) Potable water: Free of impurities and organic material. rising damp. SSSeSe=5 SS amG | ea Z Sade ame ote Fem = = =a Smimielen : STRETCHER BOND HEADER BOND ENGLISH COMMON BOND AMERICAN COMMON BOND LIVERPOOL BOND FLEMISH BOND Some brick walls. ical brick bond patterns - created by the way in which the brick was laid. It is important to duplicate the original pattern when repairing or rebuilding Proportioning A) 1 part white Portland cement; 5 parts lime; 9-10 parts sand, recommended mix. A higher lime content is also possible and in many cases desirable. B) Sample areas should be tested and examined by the ar- chitect or supervisor prior to settling on the final mix. It is recommended always that a test patch be made in areas to be treated. If any doubts exist, the Division for Archaeology and Historic Preservation in the Department of Planning and Natural Resources is available for consultation. FLUSH CONCAVE WEATHERED RODD BEADED Traditional joint profiles. "Concave" and “Weathered"are probably the most common his- toric joints in the Virgin Islands. Occasional "Tooled" (either "rodded" or "beaded") are also common historic joints. YES Don’t break the surface of the brick. Be sure to rake out to a sufficient depth. Repointing The main concerns for brick wall repairs are repointing and cleaning. Repointing, or replacing the mortar be- tween bricks, should be carried out in a careful way. All joints should be raked by hand and no machines or saws should be used. Using a chisel, loose mortar should be removed to a depth ap- proximately twice the width of the open- ing. New mortar should be carefully laid in the joints being careful not to feather the joints or spread the mortar onto the surface. All joints should be, in mason’s terms, "neatly struck." NO Brick joints should be raked out to 2 1/2 times their width using a chisel. Mechanical means, such as circular masonry saws, can badly damage brick surfaces. Unless your building had an unusual joint type, a concave joint such as this - obtained with a common jointer - is best. _—__j____ . s _ The six steps for repointing, from top left: 1) remove loose mortar, 2) pack in new mortar following recommended mix; 3) apply jointer to horizontal joints; 4) apply to vertical joints; 5) remove excess mortar, 6) wait 2 hours, then rush and wash clean. ir Cleaning Cleaning should be carried out only when necessary. The recommended cleaning method is simply water or a combina- tion of detergent and water, with water applied under low pressure. High-pressure water cleaning (over 1000 pounds per square inch) can damage brick surfaces. If dirt is resistant, bristle brushes can be used on the surface. Wire brushes should not be used. Particularly dirty surfaces may be cleaned using an extremely weak chemical solution of sulfuric acid. Test patches should be made before full cleaning begins. Sandblasting of brick is strictly prohibited. Sandblasting mars the brick surface, altering its character al- together. Extremely porous or soft bricks or bricks that have been previously sandblasted can be treated with a coat of lime wash, following the instructions for plaster walls set out in a separate guideline. Painting with a flat acrylic latex, water- based paint is also recommended. For further information contact: Department of Planning and Natural Resources — V.1. State Historic Preservation Office Dronningens Gade 71 & 72A St. Thomas, Virgin Islands 00802 (340)776-8605 Tel (340)776-7236 Fax or Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.I. State Historic Preservation Office Fort Frederik Museum 198 Strand Street St. Croix, Virgin Islands 00840 (340)719-7089 Tel (340)719-8343Fax Prepared by William Chapman Layout by Jeanne Strong PRESERVATION GUIDELINE 5 Division for Archaeology and Historic Preservation Virgin Islands Department of Planning and Natural Resources THE REPAIR OF STONE WALLS St. Paul’s Anglican Church, tower c. 1849, built of local limestone. Cut-stone walls -- as distinguished from rubble masonry --are common throughout the Virgin Islands, but especially in in- town commercial areas. Frederiksted, in particular, has anum- ber of cut-stone walls. Most of the stone for St. Croix buildings especially- nearly all of it limestone - was quarried in the central valley or was taken from the coral beds along the west end. Stone in Charlotte Amalie was mainly imported. As with rub- ble walls, the cut-stone walls are often rough-coursed (unevenly laid) and are typically coated with lime plaster. The only dif- ference from rubble walls is one of degree: cut-stone walls employ more regular stone blocks and the stones show more clearly on the existing buildings. Moisture As with rubble walls and brick walls, surfaces should be examined for evidence of water penetration, usually leaks or damp ground. These should be corrected before other work begins. (See guidelines for rubble masonry and brick as well.) Typical masonry work. Note, even when Installation of a perimeter outer layers are evenly coursed cut stone, drain can help cut down on mois- much of the interior of the wall is still ture problems. Set perforated rubble. Water penetration remains the drain in a bed of gravel and be main problem for preserving such walls. certain that the ground slopes away from building and that the pipe also drains. Outward-leaning Walls If a wall is leaning outward or shows other signs of falling, the wall may be tied using stainless steel ties and anchors. Other- wise, the foundation should be reinforced, often to the point of providing a new concrete footing. In some cases the wall may have to be rebuilt. If this is done, care must be taken to duplicate the original appearance of the wall. Stone for several St. Thomas buildings was mostly imported. i Stainless steel tie rods and anchors can help to stabilize outward-leaning rubble walls. Combined with a concrete footing and, in some Cases, a concrete rim ring bond band, ties can help reinforce existing walls. Generally do not attempt to straighten lean- ing walls! Excavating and prowioing a roper concrete footing can | correct a failing masonry Wall. Cleaning and Repointing Stone walls rarely need to be cleaned, but often need repoint- ing. If the mortar between the stones is loose, this t, should be removed with a chisel and fresh mortar put NO] in its place. Modern Portland cement should not be used for this pur- pose, as it is too hard for the soft limestone around YES | it. Efforts should be made to duplicate the finish of existing stone walls. As with brick repointing, joints should be raked out to 2-1/2 times their width and packed with an appropriate mortar. Concave joints are usually preferable. Do Not feather edge as in the top example. mw |_ I TI Li {I it it [[l4= imal Lf im | a iI t J L L_I a! HA 4 ry yt i — it I T Gh bh at TI LI i jf Retain the character and details of original stonework. Proportioning A) 1 part white Portland cement; 5 parts lime; 9-10 parts sand, recommended mix. A higher lime content is also possible and in many cases desirable. B) Sample areas should be tested and examined by the ar- chitect or supervisor prior to settling on the final mix. (See the guideline for brick walls for more complete instructions.) Following repointing, a thin coat of lime wash is highly recom- mended. This coat, being composed of the same material as the wall, will not affect its appearance, but will help to protect from rain and pollution. Re { iM A coat of lime wash can help to protect the surface of stone structures such as these. For further information contact: Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.I. State Historic Preservation Office Dronningens Gade 71 & 72A St. Thomas, Virgin Islands 00802 (340)776-8605 Tel (340)776-7236 Fax or Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.I. State Historic Preservation Office Fort Frederik Museum 198 Strand Street St. Croix, Virgin Islands 00840 (340)719-7089 Tel (340)719-8343 Fax Preapred by William Chapman Layout by Jeanne Strong PRESERVATION GUIDELINE 6 Division of Archaeology and Historic Preservation Virgin Islands Department of Planning and Natural Resources REPAIRS TO WOOD BUILDINGS Termite Inspection Once sources of water penetration have been discovered and an effort made -- even if temporarily -- to repair leaky roofs and gutters, an examination for termites can be made. Ter- mites get into the walls both through the ground and by air. The former or subter- ranean termites are by far the most damaging to wood buildings. To look for signs of termite infestation, walls may be examined simply by knocking or by probing with an icepick, knife, or Wood has long been a popular building material in the Virgin Islands, used for both institutional and other buildin, . Friedensfeld Midlands Moravian Church, one of the largest all wood buildings in the West Indies. Wood combined with masonry. Shingle surfaces such as this have been common since the 18th century. Moisture - the main problem for wood Many of the buildings in the Virgin Islands are built of wood and require special care. The main concerns are that original materials not be replaced, unless it is fully necessary and, that if wood walls or wooden parts of buildings must be replaced, the replacement material should resemble the original as closely as possible. GENERAL TREATMENTS Inspection for Leaks An initial inspection should be made for signs of leaks and, usually accompanying this, infestation by termites or other insects. As with stone or brick buildings, the main threat to wood build- ings is water penetration. If a roof is sound and gutters work properly, a seemingly fragile wood building can, in fact, last indefinitely. screwdriver. Foundations should also be examined for termite trails, although Inspection for termites. SES Some typical sources of termites: debris in the soil either inside or outside the foundation walls; in con- pats with the soil; hidden termite trails. Subterranean termite trails - fre- quently a sign of termite presence. these are often hidden from view within the wall cavities. Rub- ble masonry buildings and buildings with rubble masonry foun- dations -- the case with most Virgin Islands historic wood buildings -- have this problem especially and roofs and walls can be infested by termites invisible at the foundation level. Iftermites are discovered, the ground around the building and the building itself should be treated by a professional exter- minator. In isolated areas, wood preservatives (generally chromated copper or zinc naphthanate, both anti-fungicides as well) or other similar preservative treatments can be applied. Treatment, however, is less effective than tenting and -- espe- cially -- professional ground treatment with pesticides. Avoid Covering Interiors Traditional practice should be fol- lowed when undertaking any wood repairs. Exposed stud walls and rafters, so typical in most older West Indian buildings, were not simply a means of saving materials, but had a . practical rationale as well. Exposed -| | walls meant less vermin, an easy way to oa Moe detect termites, and ensured proper — ventilation both of walls and roofs. _ Whenever possible, this method of Sawn-work detailing - an enormously significant fea- building should be retained. Installa- ture of many wood build- 4; ings. Efforts should be “OD of gypsum board or other made to retain existing ex- wallboard is discouraged for the same es and repair wnere necessary. Illustration from reason, although modern fire codes Pamela Gosner’s Historic ‘ . . Famen face of the Virgin ™4Y in many instances require some Islands.. changes. fl 0 pce a o = Decorative Sawn-Work and Other Decoration The Virgin Islands is particrlarly noted for its wealth of jig-saw or sawn-work, known variously as gingerbread or decorative "icing". There is also some turned work-and other significant decoration. Whenever existing decorative work is in place, this should be retained and repaired. In some cases replacement of entire sections, of either bargeboards (also called "valences" when horizontal) or balusters, may be neces- sary. If this is done, great care should be taken to duplicate the original design as closely as possible. Always, good quality materials should be used to ensure long-lasting repairs. a's. (2) simple lapped weather- board; (3) "novelty" board, also known as German siding; and (4) cedar shingles or shakes. Whenever replacement is neces- qs Ss NO YES sary, replacement with material Match the detailing of original closely resembling the original is siding. Duplicate the corner board highly recommended. All of (quoin) and baseboard details. E , these materials are available from lumber yards or can be spe- ————— cial ordered. =! A rt a =e @ TT 7 Lapped weatherboard. Ship- lapped novelty board. Note the drip molding or drip cap along the baseboard. Be sure to include proper detailing and flashing to bet- ter preserve your building. Don’t remove siding unnecessarily. Often guing or other spot repairs can prolong the life of damaged siding. Exterior detailing Great care must be taken to duplicate the details of exterior walls. Window and door surrounds or trim must be exactly reproduced. Corners should have endboards or, in some cases, quoins. A drip molding, properly flashed, should be provided at the bottom of the wall. Similar molding or caps must be placed above doors and windows. Cedar shingles - a common siding material for wood buildings in the Virgin Islands. The addition of sawn-work or other decorative wood features, where none was present before, is generally discouraged, at least on major facades of the building. Some Lapped weatherboard, and US¢ of decorative work is possible in "German" or novelty siding. courtyards and on new buildings, al- though care must be taken to follow traditional practices closely. In some instances, sawn work can be used on new porches (dis- cussed in a separate "Guideline"). Siding There are basically four kinds of wood siding in the Virgin Islands: (1) older weather-boarding with a "bead" or rounded portion at the bottom; Consider replacing damaged pieces rather than wholesale replacement of siding: (1) determine degree of damage; (2) use wood wedges to pull damaged section away from wall; @) use back saw to cut away damaged piece; (4) use hacksaw blade to cut nail; (5) push replacement siding into place using block, back with "spacers" for reinforcement; (6) nail in place, pre-drilling nai holes. A similar technique can be used to replace individual shingles: (1) cut away damaged material; (2) cut nails; (3) push new piece into place measuring carefully for length. Often an indication of termite presence is less dangerous than many assume. In most instances, buildings in the West Indies were built of imported heart pine, a material extremely resilient to termites -- even more resilient than modern treated materials. Often, too, termites have "completed" their work and are no longer present in the building. Also, since most historic wood buildings are stronger than they actually need to be, the loss of some materials may not really threaten the building’s stability. Wood sheathing or wood interior walls often have nothing to support other than themselves and can simply be repaired with wood hardeners and epoxy and partial replacement, rather than being replaced entirely. A wood building often gains "character" through such repairs, and the walls need not all look new and perfect. Tests and repairs for other types of wood-eating insects in- cluding carpenter ants and anobid beetles, should follow similar procedures. Extreme caution must be taken when using pesticides or fungicides (discussed below) . Other than in limited cir- cumstances, they should be applied by professionals only, and care must be taken to ensure that chemically treated materials are not left exposed. Rotted Wood In addition to termites, wood buildings are affected by rot. Again, the cause is moisture, coupled closely with poor ventila- tion. Rot will generally occur where: (1) water leaks in through the roof or leaky gutters or downspouts; (2) areas that are poorly ventilated, allowing a build-up of moisture, and (3) in cases when the wood is in contact with the ground or covered by vegetation. The main solution in each instance is to remove Typical brown rot - generally remove, though consolidation and repair is possible if affected area is small enough. Cross-grain cracking - indicative of more virulent "dry-rot.". Always remove completely and discard. the source of dampness and begin replacement of affected wood elements only after that point. Wood Replacement Rotted wood takes a variety of forms and each type of rot has a particular character. For purposes of repairs to wood build- ings, it is only important to remove that portion of the material G* 3 that is rotted. Unaffected pieces, or even portions of original pieces, should be retained wherever possible. Replacement Materials and Repairs As stressed above, it is important that replacement materials resemble the originals, in terms of wood type, shape, and so on, as closely as possible. Also, only pressure-treated materials (wolmanized) with at least limited guarantee against termite infestation and/or rot should be accepted for replacement pieces. In some cases, naturally resistant woods, such as redwood, cedar, or mahogany may be sub- stituted, though call for Wood components of masonry buildings the use of such higher often require replacement. Again, treated . . giteeuils should be Used. cost materials is unusual. Newer materials, particularly pine or fir, are often not so well-cured as original wood materials. Therefore they are more subject to warping or twisting. This is particularly true of materials treated with wolman salts (wolmanized), which are relatively "damp" at the time of purchase. It is important that good quality kiln-dried wood be used whenever possible. The extra cost is often worth it in the long run. While replacement materials should match the original close- ly, materials more-or-less hidden from view, such as wall sheathing, floor decking, or roof sheathing may be of a less historic character. Pressure-treated plywood is often an excel- lent substitute for original wood plank sheathing. Similarly 2 by 4 and 2 by 6 inch pine, rather than traditional 4 by 4 members, may be used in roof-structures hidden from view, though more traditional treatments are always the most recommended. Epoxy Repairs Before replacing wood materials entirely, the owner should consider other less dramatic repairs. Often a wood structural member can be spliced (a small piece inserted to replace damaged piece) or infilled with epoxy fillers. Epoxy fillers and impregnation (using drills to penetrate the wood) can be used to stabilize and reinforce damaged pieces. This proce- dure should be considered especially for elements such as window sills or exposed interior : —s structural members, where the Ky repairs - consisting of har- deners an ete “an pite be weed original shape or decorative to repair limited damage, such as = a ar bard ip remove nine sills or treatment is itself significant. decorative details. Rotted sills can be replaced in part or totally. Be certain to replace with treated materials. Caulk well and paint. YES WITH CAUTION For paint preparation use (1 Painting Wood surfaces should nearly always be painted as a protective measure. Paint repels moisture and helps keep the wood sound. It also inhibits warping or twisting. Always, a good quality primer should be used and, whenever possible, a good quality alkyd (oil-based) or acrylic latex paint applied. Light colored stains can also be used, particularly on shingled walls. (See the separate guideline on paints and materials). Le NM Jt Use the opportunity to set and putty nail holes and caulk. Use a high grade marine type caulk (toluene or butyl) for the best results. Artificial Materials Vinyl or aluminum siding should never be used. These materials can be damaging to the wood understructure (en- couraging rot) and do not hold up well over time. Also, metal and vinyl siding usually hides important details and alters the building’s character. Artificial siding over wood siding can mask more dangerous problems and tra additional moisture. Vinyl an aluminum siding are not per- mitted on historic structures in Virgin Island historic districts. ja Psy knife (sometimes combined with chemical strippers; (2) a paint scraper; (3) an orbital sander, and (4) a heat plate (with caution). Do not use disk or belt sanders, both of which can mar wood surfaces. For further information contact: Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.I. State Historic Preservation Office Dronningens Gade 71 & 72A St. Thomas, Virgin Islands 00802 (340)776-8605 Tel (340)776-7236 Fax or Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.I. State Historic Preservation Office Fort Frederik Museum 198 Strand Street St. Croix, Virgin Islands 003840 (340)719-7089 Tel (340)719-8343 Fax Prepared by William Chapman Layout by Jeanne Strong PRESERVATION GUIDELINE i Division for Archaeology and Historic Preservation Virgin Islands Department of Planning and Natural Resources WINDOWS AND DOORS Original wind ows and doors are extremely important appearance of older buildings. ee tera Windows and Selecting New Shutter and Door Patterns aes doors ane Ue If the existing doors and shutters cannot be repaired or the rere iy) tremely impor- building lacks any shuiters or ef leis tant to the doors, new replacements will be necessary. Care must be taken, however, to select the correct pat- mT = Traditional win- tern for shutter or door replace- ! Hey i | = dows and doors ment. Most shutters and doors — in the Virgin is- originally were solid (or “false’) lands consisted of double-plank or solid- panelled ex- terior storm shutters and louvered blinds called "jalousies” on the inside. Some buildings had glass windows from an early period and some had true-panelled shutters and doors, al- though both are exceptions. Hinanl ———_——_———— to the historic character of older buildings. Every effort must be made to preserve both openings and the types of doors and windows in each opening. Jalousies and glazed sash are both historic window treatment. Preservation When undertaking window or door repairs, consideration should be given to retaining both external shutters and original jalousies. Both can often be repaired, many times requiring simply replacement of a few louvers or splicing in a piece where wood is damaged. If jalousies or shutters are badly damaged, they should be reproduced when possible. Both can be made by local carpenters and mill shops. Cheap, non-operable jalousies are not recommended. Their life-span is short, and they are usually not worth the expense. | © Gens 6 aaa aw =e oon lee Avoid modem chevron-pat- terned shutters. While there is some historic precedent for shut- ters of this kind, combined horizontal and vertical plank shutters were more common. *V-crooved” boards were not used historically. panelled, at least for upper stores. and of double-plank construction - for groundfloors. (This is not al- ways the case, however, as both double-planked and solid- panelled shutters are sometimes placed in just the opposite way or are uniform throughout a build- ing). Modern chevron-patterned shutters and doors, particularly those using tongue-and-groove: "V-grooved", pine are definite:y not recommended. These are modern renditions of traditicaal doors and shutters and are generally not in keeping with the historic character of buildings in the Virgin Islands. Metal doors. both cast-iron and sheet metal over wood. are extremely important features of many commercial buildings. H == Historic doors. both at second story levels. . Retain aot wood and metal doors. Irregulanities, as shown in these two t examples. are 0} en important to their character. Metal doors, usually sheet metal over wood, were especially common in commercial areas of St. Thomas. Again, if repair is not possible, new metal doors following traditional patterns are recommended. Modern varnished mahogany doors, which have become increasingly popular, are not considered ap- propriate in the Virgin Islands historic districts -- especially on historic structures. Replacement Windows As with doors, owners are encouraged to preserve and repair existing window treatments whenever possible. If the building has no jalousies or other historic windows, compatible treat- ments may be considered. Custom-made wood jalousies can be fitted with interior screens or glazing; screened or glazed "boxes" over jalousie louvers are ideal. In the case of historically glazed windows, interior storms can be installed to improve efficiency. TITEL E ae Recommended replacement windows and storm shutters. Either falsc- panelled or plank shutters are acceptable. Always attempt first to repair the onginals. - a= SIND) TT) frit (Vee ll JET Jo LL Standard door types for replacement. ei == is it If security or air-conditioning are a concern, glass windows may in most instances be substituted. Traditional glass win- dows are of two types: double-hung, multi-paned sash; or inward-swinging glass casements. Both are readily available from manufacturers or can be special or- dered (or manufactured locally) for ian q custom sizes. In some cases, espe- | cially when thermo-pane windows i it are desired, enamelled-metal win- _:4 | dows or vinyl-clad windows, with ap- ii i propriate muntin patterns (window {) f divisions) can be substituted. Mun- tins (dividers) must have proper depth, however, and must resemble those on traditional wooden win- as the depth (reveal) of the dows. Cheaper "snap-in" or muntions (dividers). Whenin- y : "i : troducing glass windows be sandwiched" muntins are not ac- certain that thevare in keeping with historic examoies. ceptable. Pay attention to details such 7-2 Modern glass jalousies, or metal jalousies should never be used on historic buildings. These take away significantly from NO § = ena] ia ia Inappropriate muntins, obviously inoperable shutters, all detract from the character of windows such as these. NO il ul L_] =. = bal NO NO | NO Avoid modern windows such as these. They shouid never be used on the fronts or visible sides of historic buildings. I. N\QS Awning type windows can be used Glass or metal jalousies (Miami on rear elevations when changes are _ louvers), should never be installed in uired and on new additions to his- _ historic buildings. toric buildings - again, on less prominent elevations. No| . aah cl tH | C) bx None of these doors is appropriate for nistoric buildings. ae | d : the historic appearance of a building. Their use can, however be considered for new construction (discussed in a separate guideline). Single-paned, glass windows either for commercial fronts or for residential uses are discouraged. Painting Doors, shutters, jalousies, and wood and metal windows should be painted to protect the original materials. Typical colors (as described in a separate brief) are white, gray, red- dish-brown, and green for exterior shutters; green and some- times white for jalousies. Hardware can be painted black or, more typically painted the same color as the door or shutter. Hardware ; Existing hardware should in all cases be reused whenever possible. If new hardware is required, it should be of high quality, although it can be simple. Wrought-iron strap hinges and pintles, both available from local suppliers, should be used both for shutters and doors. Modern butt hinges, whether square or triangular, are not appropriate replacements, nor are especially ornate brass or other hardware. oo i, . . Yt Traditional hardware, hooks and hinges. Longer, strap hinges are for storm shutters and doors; "H" and “L" hinges are commonly used on intenor jalousies. Storefronts/Display Windows Few Virgin Islands buildings have traditional, European or North American type storefronts. Most modern businesses are located in older stores and warehouses, most of which lacked display windows or typical storefront entrances. In all cases, every effort must be made to retain existing warehouse type entrances. The introduction of display windows -even in the place of former entrances - is highly dis- couraged. Be sure to install flashin: over window heads (lintels when making repalrs. oe In instances where older (usually early 20th-century) storefronts do exist, they should be retained with the fewest changes possible. This would mean retaining plate glass win- dows, recessed entries, and other details. Reintroduction of multi-paned glass or the "recreation" of undocumented historic entrances is not encouraged, except in special circumstances. For further information contact: Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.1. State Historic Preservation Office Dronningens Gade 71 & 72A St. Thomas, Virgin Islands 00802 (340)776-8605 Tel (340)776-7236 Fax or Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.I. State Historic Preservation Office Fort Frederik Museum 198 Strand Street St. Croix, Virgin Islands 00840 (340)719-7089 Tel (340)719-8343Fax Prepared by William Chapman Layout by Jeanne Strong IN | Keep historic, carly 20th-century storefronts. PRESERVATION GUIDELINE 8 Division for Archaeology and Historic Preservation Virgin Islands Department of Planning and Natural Resources PORCHES, BALCONIES, AND ARCADES repairs, the repair or Porches, balconies, and arcades are original to many buildings in the Virgin Islands and elsewhere in-the Caribbean. Their — preservation of architec- northern European culture in the Caribbean, with possible separate guidelines on F influence as well from the West African coast. masonry repairs. 5 The addition of new = porches, balconies or ar- = cades to old buildings 1s N SG? generally discouraged. ——Srp EY: _# ; In some instances, how- Up . ever, new porches may Pea A wood balcony on metal brackets. be added and, similarly, zi = Gosner "Histor Arebiicire of Virsa balconies may be added g | While 2 fe ee: Genre Sion a where there were none r pecs ULGt ul ae prior presence can be documented. ry arcade may be re- oe nll quired where past evidence of a similar arcade is available. The main comcerns Porches, balconies, and arcades are basic features of Virgin Islands historic districts. Existing examples should be preserved whenever possible. are whether such an addition will alter the overall character of the building or not and the overall "authenticity" of the change. | ata hin 8 IX ruittnd y LL! AE ' v t ai a 2 m™ Cy GC I Some outstanding wrought and cast iron balconies. : Repairs to Existing Porches, Balconies, and Arcades ° $2 ; For porch, balcony, or f } y (J —e arcade repairs, owners | | 9) £0) 0 = — should follow the same . \ i (\ 5 T ei procedures as those for AC a TVW: wood, metal, and = imi masonry repairs in = 7 general: original Od ¥ bcs Srnanecgl materials should be if A <= saved whenever pos- Hy ft fy 0 O Ls = “at é \ ade] sible; replacement ; () Tr ee Hen Ht] e | materials should come a ee aed at as close to the original = se.) ellm : é . Some common sawn-work balusters. Care should carefully duplicate ousy | Ug rat as possible. Reference original patterns when repairing or replacing wood Palconics- jal! sa eeeree: rire Ai should be made to guidelines on wood A metai double arcade (two-story), on the former St. Thomas Bank, Charlotte Amalie. - Some common lattice patterns. Lattice was often used instead of balusters for both balconies and ve . Arcades are important to the historicchar- -_ Plaster and other details of acter of Christiansted and Frederiksted. _ historic arcades must be care- Every effort should bemade to retain existing fully duplicated. examples, and replace damaged arcades wi new arcades to match. Oo” & strikingly "contemporary" designs are also acceptable, provided they follow basic rules of sympathetic materials, scale, and overall quality. ~ a ~ eS SSS SS SSS SS ~ SAS Se . LJ K Do not use modern metal posts, rails, or balusters. These detract from a building’s historic character. More recent arcades often fail to duplicate essential features of historic examples. The modem arcade in the right hand picture — built of reinforced concrete _ allows too great a span for arches, Placement Placement of new porches, balconies, and arcades is obviously an important factor, especially if the concern with character change for the original building is taken into account. Ideally, new porches and balconies (as Op- posed to the re- placement of existing examples) should be added to the rear of build- ings, where they are less in the public view. Their design should be simple and, generally, should follow historic precedent. More New porches or balconies should be added to rear elevations onty — unless there is historic precedent that can be documented. in turn rest. on columns too small (vis ually) to support them. For new porches and balconies on street facades, even more care must be taken. Generally, new porches or balconies on facades of historic buildings should only be added when there is some evidence of their presence historically on that building. “When uncertain of the original design, historic reproductions based on comparable examples are recommended. Care must be taken to duplicate the placement, size, and known details of historic porches, balconies, or arcades whenever adding these as a replacement of previously existing features. Modern materials, such as reinforced concrete or concrete block must not be used, nor should modern decorative ironwork be employed for either posts or balusters. — — —_ — —— _—-= —__—— ——S S=—€“~ SS ——Sr — = iring rotted decking, attempt Nosing at the ed ge of floor deck- down onwatcr to splice in replacement ing can help cut penetranon. if) a! 4 (Fa dg \\ t, ey an) ahd WO a) \\ 4 Me ! Yow 11 parry mit gp 1 Cae = \ | N \e ( | \ \ often be repaired. Always try to repair exsting Warped or lifti in} E decking can wholesale. . materials rather t an repiacing For further informa tion contact: ing and Natural Resources" ~ Department of Plann V.1. State Histor ic Preservation Office Dronningens Gade 71 & 72A St. Thomas, Virgin Islands 00802 (340)776-8605 Tel (340)776-7236 Fax or Dep: artment of Planning and Natural Resources V.1. State His toric Preservation Office Fort Frederik Museum 198 Strand Street St. Croix, Virgin Islands 00840 (340)719-7089 Tel (340)719-8343 Fax hapman Prepared by William C Layout by Jeanne Strong PRESERVATION GUIDELINE 9 Division for Archaeology and Historic Preservation Virgin Islands Department of Planning and Natural Resources ROOF REPLACEMENT AND REPAIRS There are two major concerns when undertaking roofreplace- ments or repairs: form and materials. Both of these should be taken into account when considering changes to existing his- toric buildings. Di oa o foe oe =| Roof form is important to historic buildings. Every effort must be made to retain the shape and materials of historic roofs. Roof Form Most roofs in the Virgin Islands are "hipped", that is, a roof of four intersecting planes. Occasionally these rise to a single point, but more often are topped by a ridge line running parallel (though sometimes perpendicular) to the street. A few roofs are gable-ended. A few combine these elements with “balf- hipped" forms. Others, such as Mansard roofs (eight-planed), are truly exceptions. ES \ HALF HIPPED HIPPED The range of roof types. MANSARD FLAT PARAPET Historic Roofing Materials Roof framing in the Virgin Islands was traditionally timber -- usually lacking ridge-poles. The frame is covered by a sheath- ing of planks, or separated purlins, then covered by tile or wood shingles. Occasional older buildings still have wood or tile roofs, though most have subsequently been covered over by metal roofing. A half-hipped or “clipped” roof. Sheathing for roofs: purlins or This roof erm is typical of larger, butted. Modern plywood makes an mostly 18th-century buildings in the effective replacement. Ideally, 3/4 Virgin Islands. inch or 1 inch thick plywood improves roof performance during storms. Also use appropriate fasteners. Most roofs now are covered with galvanized sheet metal. These come either in plates (ex- tremely rare and old) or in cor- Corrugated sheet metal - Now the rugated sheets. They are typical roofing material.Use ofalow generally painted red or sil- gauge cena’ material combined with proper fasteners - usually ver,although some roofs are screws into both purlins and decking - vastly improves metal roof perfor- white and a few are gr enon Red mance during hurricanes. is a recommended historic color, though other roof colors Zk retain existing roofs when un- dertaking repairs. If, however, are acceptable. Replacement Roofs Plate metal roofs -- common on the existing roof is severely some historic buildings. Every effort should be made to ~‘NY = Two seam types for sheet metal A proper drip edge for standing- roofs. Both work effectively for bet- seam metal roofs can improve perfor- ter quality metal roofs. mance. deteriorated -- or in some cases absent -- new roofs following the existing or in some cases traditional examples are accept- able. The main concern in replacing or repairing roofs is the need to reproduce the shape and pitch of the original or historic roof. Measurements must be. taken before removing a deteriorated , older roof; and the new roof should be designed to match exactly. If information is not available for a specific building -- either in the form of historic photographs or physical evidence -- then another roof form appropriate to the historic period of the building may be selected. Traditional roofs were (and are) high-pitched with angles generally at 35 degrees. Nearly always, rafters were tied directly into the masonry wall, or in the case of wood buildings, attached directly to the top plate. Overhang- ing eaves were altogether ab- sent, both for maintenance should be preserved or recreated when tence In the event of hur- roofs must be replaced. ricanes. Unless evidence ex- ists to the contrary, no overhang should be incorporated into new roof designs. Gutters and Downspouts Another concern is the design and placement of gutters. Traditional gutters are semi-circular (half-round) in profile not ogee patterned as are many modern gutters. An effort should be made to obtain the proper gutters, as they have an important impact on the appearance of a building. Some Virgin Islands buildings have bracketed, attached over- hangs, known elsewhere as pent roofs or awning roofs. If an owner wishes to duplicate this feature, it should be based on prior documentation. Ogee patterned gutters -- less : Half-round gutters - more tradition- traditional. al. S MRD YS a BOSSE: CSS Wyk TORE STREET SRS Screens or basket fitters can help prevent clogging of downspouts or gutters. 9-2. Roofing Materials Roofs should be covered with a high- grade, low-gauge (the lower the gauge the stronger the material) galvanized, corrugated sheet metal and repainted regularly. Standing seam roofs -- either custom built or manufactured roofing -- are also acceptable. There is no substitute for regular gutter maintenance. Dormers - a special problem. Generally, dormers should not be added to buildings which never had them. Also, existing dormers should be retained. To some extent, however new dormers can be added to historic buildings. Sometimes, roof framing hoes clues to earlier dormers. Otherwise, the overall effect of new dormers should be taken into account: will the new dormers significantly alter the appearance of a building; is it possible to locate dormers on less visible sides of a building? Owners should ask these and other questions when considering new dormers. Skylights are generally discouraged in the historic districts, unless they can be hidden from public view. Avoid "bubbie-top" Sone) skylights in favor of eee flat-profile lights. Skylights are not permitted on visible roof sur- aces. For further information contact: Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.1. State Historic Preservation Office Dronningens Gade 71 & 72A St. Thomas, Virgin Islands 00840 (340)776-8605 Tel (340)776-7236 Fax or Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.I. State Historic Preservation Office Fort Frederik Museum 198 Strand Street St. Croix, Virgin Islands 00840 (340)719-7089 Tel (340)719-8343 Fax Produced by William Chapman Layout by Jeanne Strong PRESERVATION GUIDELINE 10 Division for Archaeology and Historic Preservation Virgin Islands Department of Planning and Natural Resources REPAIR AND REPLACEMENT OF ARCHITECTURAL METALS There is surprisingly little use of architectural metals in older should then be painted with a good-quality metal primer before Virgin Islands buildings. The main reason, simply, has always repainting, Never paint over existing rust spots. been the high cost. There are, nonetheless, a number of excep- tions, and several fine examples of architectural metalwork do Repairs to Architectural Metals: exist. Also, most buildings incorporate metal into other fea- tures such as shutter hinges, brackets, and door hardware. Therefore, the proper preservation -- and, in some cases, the selection -- of architectural metals are important issues. Repairs to metal work should be undertaken before replace- ment. Both cast (rare in the Virgin Islands) and wrought iron can be patched and repaired in place, and this practice should generally be followed. Sider ee tl serra mcgeg tas ee g4e HV ap! «44 Ls TLR While relatively rare, there are a number of exceptionally high quality cast and wrought iron balconies in the Virgin Islands. Maintenance: Architectural metals are extremely subject to deterioration, Replacement Metalwork: especially when unprotected by paint. The key to good preser- Replacement hinges, pintles, and hooks and eyes for shutters vation is constant maintenance -- especially in a marine environ- and doors should be duplicated accurately whenever possible. ment such as the Virgin Islands. Metals should be cleaned —_If the cost is too high, simple wrought iron strap hinges may be periodically, wire-brushed or scoured (and in some cases _ substituted. These should be painted to blend in with the sandblasted) to remove all traces of rust. The metal work PSM Ie 2 i aoe >. a Gateways are another common place where historic metal work is found. Efforts should be madc to preserve original or otherwise historic examples. jo- = eth Haw NAV LU /AEED MA LL f v Hi at HH Ba se ea fel eed Fel +7 Fry bes ty ia f° 5 ca o a ru ould = pee cence — ew are missing, duplicated during repair or rehabilitation work. "| ccaRGEN sere Examples of historic hinge and hook types. shutter or surrounding masonry. Good quality metal primers are also recommended for hardware. There are numerous examples of a iron brackets throughout the Virgin Islands. Existing examples should be retained. Replacement pieces should match originals. Metal Brackets: Metal brackets for balconies or signs, following traditional shapes, can be easily obtained or made-up by local metal workers. Care should be taken to duplicate other old examples in the islands, if none can be found on the building. Security Grills: One of the main uses for architectural metals is for protective grillwork. Traditionally, there was little use of metal grills for security in the Virgin Islands. Window shutters were simply barred from the inside at night to ensure safety; during the day, at least on commercial buildings, simple horizontal bars were used. These were sometimes of metal, but more often, of wood. When a window opening needs to be protected, the simplest solution is usually the best one. Wrought iron bars, ideally square in section and set into the frames horizontally, are a good Original hardware is important to the "historic value” of older buildings. Always, existing hinges, hooks and other hardware should be reused or, where pieces traditional solution to security needs. For maximum protec- tion, the bars should be set directly into the masonry. Ornate, decorative grillwork is completely out of character with traditional buildings in the Virgin Islands and should be avoided. Most of this iron-work is not particularly strong and - is less effective than simple iron bars. Another solution, how- ever, if a more decorative treatment is sought, is simple, plain- designed grillwork of a generally contemporary character. There are several contractors and craftspeople capable of this kind of work, and their design can often add greatly to the quality of a rehabilitation job. Security grills should be kept as simple as possible. The use of historic metal grill - such as that shown on the left - is one possible solution. Horizontal metal - or even wood ~ bars, shown on the right, is another. For further information contact: Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.1. State Historic Preservation Office Dronningens Gade 71 & 72A | St. Thomas, Virgin Islands 00802 (340)776-8605 Tel (340)776-7236 Fax or Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.1. State Historic Preservation Office Fort Frederik Museum 198 Strand Street St. Croix, Virgin Islands 00840 (340)719-7089 Tel (340)719-8343 Fax Produced by William Chapman Layout by Jeanne Strong PRESERVATION GUIDELINE 11 Division for Archaeology and Historic Preservation Virgin Islands Department of Planning and Natural Resources LIGHTING AND OTHER MECHANICAL SYSTEMS LIGHTING Historically, there has been little public lighting in the Virgin Islands. Houses were typically lit internally, and the few street- lights were maintained by the municipality, or more recently, by the Public Works Department. Busi- ness signs were traditional- ly often unlighted; and those signs that were lighted are lighted with one or two low-wattage bulbs. Internally illuminated signs-- neon signs or flash- ing signs -- have never been allowed under Virgin Is- Lighting for business signs should be as simple rei ieee my Upcast lights for flush lands Law. signs. When adding new light- ing to historic buildings, the best solution is the y; simplest one possible. Plain light fixtures, point- ; ing upwards to avoid glare, \ should be used for hanging signs. Passageways can be lit with simple contem- : : porary wall or post ooo on Hemescemt Fights 100 ented lights (usually mounted low) or by wall sconces or canister lamps. Indirect lighting, in the form of flood lights, is also a good solution for alleys and courtyards. Artificial looking historic coach lamps are definitely not recommended. The main concern is that lighting should meet needs for safety and identification and little else. Indirect, spotlighting or Sasreshaihig downcast lamps can be used to light alleys or courtyard spaces. Neither are permanent additions to historic build- ings, nor do they alter historic buildings or materials. Simple boxed fixtures can be used in arcades. Do not use artificial-looking “coach-lamps". They detract from the historic character of Virgin Island districts. MECHANICAL SYSTEMS General Traditional historic buildings had no modern mechanical sys- tems. Fresh air was supplied through good design, making use of the breeze; light was provided by kerosene lamps, and plumbing facilities were in the backyard (probably the least acceptable of the three). Nowadays we expect more, but chan- ges still need to be introduced in the least damaging way possible. Air Conditioning Before air conditioning is installed, natural cooling means should be explored. Traditional openings above partition walls Avoid placing units on_building _New openings can be provided for fronts, where thay can disfigure the air conditioning units on rear eleva- building’s appearance. tions. Generally avoid such installa- tions, however, on masonry buildings. should be retained. High ceilings and open rafters should be kept exposed. Jalousies should be used; electric fans installed. If none of these measures meet cooling needs, then air con- ditioning may have to be installed. Since windows now will have to be glazed, one of the solutions described in the separate window guidelines should be used: ideally, specially fitted wood jalousies or double-hung sash windows or multi-paned casements. Glass louvers are definitely not recommended for historic buildings. For individual air conditioning units, a number of factors should be considered. Units should be mounted on an unex- posed side of the building, away from public view. They should be placed in an existing opening to avoid damage to original walls, or, if on rear or other less visible facades, may be specially installed in separate new openings. Through-the-wall units should be avoided in historic masonry buildings where damage to original materials would be necessary. ff- 2. — A POOR BETTER Consider screening condenser units for central air conditioning For larger buildings, a central air conditioning system should be considered. The equipment for these should be located in the rear or hidden by other features. Traditional wood picket fences can be used to mask the condensing unit, or it can be hidden by shrubs. Specially designed louvered "hoods" may be considered for through-the-wall units on secondary facades. Plumbing New bathrooms, pipes, and fixtures should be added in the least obtrusive way possible. If the building is large enough, existing rooms should be used. Pipes should be installed in such a way as to cause minimal damage; vents should be carefully placed on less visible roof planes or on rear elevations When adding a new bathroom -- a common occurrence on mary smaller residences -- every effort should be made to make the addition blend in with the old building. If the building is wood, the bathroom should also be wood. If it is masonry, either wood or masonry is allowable. Ideally the new bathroom should be added to the rear of the building to cause as little impact as possible. (See the separate guideline on new additions.) GOOD GOOD For further information contact: Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.1. State Historic Preservation Office Dronningens Gade 71 & 72A St. Thomas, Virgin Islands 00802 (340)776-8605 Tel (340)776-7236 Fax or Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.1. State Historic Preservation Office Fort Frederik Museum 198 Strand Street St. Croix, Virgin Islands 00840 (340)719-7089 Tel (340)719-8343 Fax Prepared by William Chapman Layout by Jeanne Strong PRESERVATION GUIDELINE 12 Division for Archaeology and Historic Preservation Virgin Islands Department of Planning and Natural Resources LANDSCAPE TREATMENTS AND SITE IMPROVEMENTS Owners of properties are responsible for maintaining the walkway and yards around their houses and, in commercial areas, for maintaining the sidewalk in front of their buildings. Courtyards are also a concern, and frequently subject to change. All such changes are subject to review by the Virgin Islands Historic Preservation Commission. The main rule in making site changes is that original features, such as paving materials, especially early paving stones or bricks, be carefully preserved. If resetting is required, original materials should be safely stored and then reused. New sidewalk, alley, or courtyard paving should follow traditional practices whenever possible. Other features, such as retaining walls and gates, fences, even historic plantings should also be kept wherever possible. New Features should be sympathetic in terms of scale, materials, and overall texture to the historic character of the site. ASMESVi ch 2 A Keep the existing characteristics of interior courtyards and sidewalk areas. Retain paving patterns, chan- ges in elevation, and special features, such as kitchens, outbuildings, or wells. Historic paving, both in courtyards and on public sidewalk contributes to the overall quality and texture of his- toric districts. Every effort should be made to retain historic paving materials or to duplicate damaged or deteriorated materials. New Lighting, Planters, and Paving General: Lighting, benches, planting and other additions to rear court- yards and side yards should be kept as simple as possible. Fake historic-looking, pole-mounted lamps should be avoided as should wall-mounted coach lamps. Free-standing, raised masonry planting beds are also discouraged, though larger planting beds, especially at the edges of alleys and courtyards, are often appropriate. Every effort should be made to retain the historic -- often utilitarian -- character of traditional interior courtyards. Use of concrete paving should be kept to a minimum. Gravel yards, bricks, or paving stones are recommended substitutes for harsher concrete. Moveable concrete or terra cotta planters are recommended for plant materials. Historic Fences and Walls Fences -- either wood or masonry -- are typical features of historic Virgin Islands properties. Many town residences and businesses had fenced rear courtyards, which were also defined by outbuildings or secondary residences. Masonry fences, such as those of the old West Indian Company warehouse in Chris- tiansted (now the U.S. Post Office) were constructed of brick or rubble masonry, or commonly, the two in combination. Usually, masonry fences (or walls) were stuccoed and extended from five to eight feet above grade. Many included gates, some of which are fairly elaborate, to provide separate access. Masonry gates and masonry wells are important architectural features that must be carefully preserved. In addition, many Virgin Islands properties had wood fences, to provide privacy and security. Vertical plank fences are common in his- toric pictures of the islands, as are wood picket fences. A few examples still exist, The few remaining wood fences must both protecting side yards be preserved. Efforts shouldbe madeto and as decorative fences duplicate the qualities of historic wood fences when building new ones. across the fronts of proper- ties. A final category of fences is iron or steel fences. Both were rare historically, though a few historic iron fences do exist. Any existing fences should be carefully preserved and repaired. Whether constructed of brick, rubble, or concrete block, new masonry perimeter walls and masonry retaining walls should duplicate the qualities and textures of historic walls. New Fences and Walls Generally, new fences and walls should follow historic ex- amples. New masonry fences, however, should only be intro- duced following careful consideration of other alternatives; such fences are permanent features and can drastically alter the character of historic properties. New masonry fences or retaining walls for historic properties should convey many of the qualities of historic walls -- including the slightly irregular Hq fe) aie Ue = sto Ol bs ere En eps Provide for adequate eae ce Modern “railroad-tie" retaining when introducing new walls. Note t walls are not permitted in historic dis- footing drain (a perforated pipe set in tricts. gravely used to help drain the “high side" of this brick wall. profiles of rubble mason- ry, even if constructed of concrete block. All should be stuccoed to resemble older walls. Wood fences can be built in a variety of pat- Pierced concrete block fencing detracts terns. Privacy or court- ene Use of this material is yard fences should gencrally consist of simple vertical planks attached to horizontal rails. Picket fen- ces can follow a variety of patterns. Ideally, owners should look to historic examples for their design inspiration, though a num- ber of standard designs are acceptable. i" ct Qaw. A ys phy Be! a TNE "Classic" picket fence designs - Wide and narrow pickets are accept- based on 18th-centurypattern able. (200006 Some alternative picket designs. ne, Fanciful pickets, such as these, shown above were common his- torically in the Islands. uf TOUT SRRECRUREE Wood dowells set in rails provide a hea : i ° licated, "cased" fences historic alternative to wood pickets. More compli D d can also be considered. Alternative methods Gates should complement the fence design. a I of attaching rails. Plant Materials Owners are encouraged to use native and traditional plant types within historic districts. A wide variety of plants are available and perform well in urban areas. Larger trees are especially encouraged for shade. Among recommended specimens are: Golden shower (Cas- sia Fistula), Apple cassia (Cassia Javanica), Geige (Cordia Sebestena), and Black calabash (Engallagma Latifolia). Recommended palms include Thatch (Coccothrinax Argen- tea), Lady (Rhapis) and Royal (Roystonia Borinquena). Shrubs include Bougainvillea (Bougainvillea), Orange jasmine (Murreya Exotica), Aralia (Polyscias), and Plumbago (Plum- bago Capensis). A wide range of ground covers can be used for planting beds or yards. ft Pickets also can be attached in several ways. Use a “spacer” when installing. Modern metal fences: welded _ Stecl fences such as this provide good steel and chain link. Neither are security. appropriate. _ Consider refinements, such as slop- _ Be certain that fence posts can drain ingtop rails, tohelpfencesshedwater. -- as in the example at the right. Al- ways use treated materials. Consider metal anchors for instal- lation. Anchors reduce contact with soil and cut down on moisture penetration. Wood fences to avoid: basketweave Both are modern “privacy” fence and “staggered” plank. designs that should be avoided in his- toric districts. - YES bid a WH = su] B gege ing PLUS A simple plank privacy fence. Some historic metal fence designs. New Steps, Walkways, and Ramps Changes to grading or other im- provements often result in the ‘necessary introduction of new steps or walkways. Handicapped requirements often dictate the need for ramps. In each case efforts should be made to keep newer features as simple and unobtrusive as pos- sible. Traditional materials, such as brick, tile or stone pavers, and is gravel should be used whenever pin ninicha Cosemier thre possible. Elaborate curbs,piers or variety, water needs, and masonrybalusters are strongly dis- cranes couraged. New designs should respect the original character and configuration of the site. SS aes | Cea | om | Oa | =| ESD Gig | Ges aD ee SSS aoe ay wey a ee ns er Bricks for walkways typically should Ewo simple brick curb designs -- t be set in a bed of ieee andsand. A be used for planting beds af court slight “crown to allow for better rds. drainage is recommended. ” Gates New gates should follow traditional examples. Both iron (steel) and wood (pickets or plank) are acceptable. Elaborate or overly decorative steel gates are strongly discouraged. Both metal and wood are traditional for yt gateways. Keep designs as simple as possible (unless more complicated historic examples can be docu- mented). Benches Permanently mounted wood, steel, or masonry benches are generally discouraged. Seating should be simple and detract minimally from the historic context. Parking Parking lots located in historic districts must be masked from public view. Masonry walls, wood fences, or vegetation should be used to hide multi-space parking. In most instances, parking should be provided at the rear of the buildings only. fom | fall | re = eS i =-)) ee | (ce Parking should be screened from poke view. Place new parking at the rear of lots,or screen with plantings or fences. For further information contact: Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.L. State Historic Preservation Office Dronningens Gade 71 & 72A St. Thomas, Virgin Islands 00840 (340)776-8605 Tel (340)776-7236 Fax or Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.I. State Historic Preservation Office Fort Frederik Museum 198 Strand Street St. Croix, Virgin Islands 00840 (340)719-7089 Tel (340)719-8343 Fax Prepared by William Chapman Layout by Jeanne Strong (2-4 PRESERVATION GUIDELINE 13 Division for Archaeology and Historic Preservation Virgin Islands Department of Planning and Natural Resources REPAIR AND REPLACEMENT OF HISTORIC EXTERIOR STAIRCASES AND STEPS The Virgin Islands posses many fine examples of historic staircases. These range from elaborate double-flight, welcom- ing arms stairs to simple, but often picturesque, ar- ched steps over guts. Many of the staircases are masonry. Historic examples are usual- ly brick and rubble stone, covered at least in part by stuc- co. Other examples are wood, including many wood stair- cases placed in ar- cades, which Historic stairs and steps are found both at gates provide access to and to provide access to the principal floor of d-st seeideties Eve: = should be — ea second-story original examples. Drawin amela Gosner, ic Historic yee 2 ver bes of the eke Islands. residences. Repair and Preservation All historic staircases should be carefully repaired and preserved as part of any restoration or rehabilitation effort. If more substantial =e canals Sorc repairs are required, ef- istoric details, such as this double flight staircase, must be carefully Merodused forts should be made to during major repairs. carefully duplicate his- toric detailing. Portland Cement Patches Generally, historic staircases employed more traditional and Details, such as relieving arches, lozenge panels and --especially in this example -- decorative porches must all be preserved during repairs. softer-lime mortars. Most, however, have been patched over the years with relatively modern, grey Portland cement. The best procedure is to remove the grey patches using a chisel. The new mortar may still rely on a proportionately high Portland content, but slightly more expensive white Portland should be substituted. The following is a recommended mortar mix for repairs and patches to historic masonry staircases: Mortar: a) Portland Cement: ASTM C150, Type 1 White b) Lime, ASTM C207, Type S, High Plasticity c) Sand: ASTM C144, fine washed Many relatively modest houses have staircases demonstrating high levels of craftsmanship. The example on the right has long been lost. Drawing by Pamela Gosner, Historic Architecture of the Virgin Islands. d) Admixture: Use a water reducing and plasticizing agent to reduce water content and drying shrinkage. "Omicron Mor- tarproofing", a product of Master Building Company or Equivalent. Follow manufacturer’s instructions for use. e) Potable water: Free of impurities and organic material. Proportioning: a) 1 part white Portland cement; 1 part lime; 5-6 parts sand, recommended mix. b) Sample areas should be tested and examined by the ar- chitect or supervisor prior to settling on the final mix. Repairs to Concrete Steps Many Virgin Islands buildings have concrete steps,often replacing earlier stone and brick steps or sometimes simply encasing them. Concrete steps often can be spot repaired. Be certain to undercut damaged areas. Do not "feather-edge" or overlap joints. Simple repairs to damaged et of concrete steps. Be sure to undercut damaged sections. Use a board as a form and do not feather the edges. Remember, if your staircase is a historic one or has brick treads, such repairs are not recommended. Missing sections can also be filled -- again, being sure not to feather the edges. Always thoroughly wet the area to be repaired prior to adding mortar. Broken corners can be reattached using a proper modern cement. Surface damage can be repaired in a similar way. Again, always under- Cut. Severely damaged sections ma need to be "built-up" and reinforced. Use stainless steel reinforcing rods. /32-2 Wood Steps and Staircases Wood steps or staircases are relatively rare for historic build- ings. Typical exterior stairs to second story residences of commercial buildings are masonry. However, there is some precedent for wood steps, both in alleys or courtyards or, especially in Chris- tiansted and Frederiksted, within arcades. Whenever possible, his- toric enclosed wood stairs should be retained. Doors, panelling and other ele- ments should follow his- toric precedent. A possible design fora simple wood side stair in keeping with historic examples. Simple enclosed wood stairs such as these are important to the character of istoric districts. Be sure to use correct details - including historic plank doors - when making changes or repairs. For further information contact: ~~ Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.I. State Historic Preservation Office Dronningens Gade 71 & 72A St. Thomas, Virgin Islands 00802 (340)776-8605 Tel (340)776-7236 Fax or Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.1. State Historic Preservation Office Fort Frederik Museum 198 Strand Street St. Croix, Virgin Islands 00840 (340)719-7089 Tel (340)719-8343 Fax Prepared by William Chapman Layout by Jeanne Strong PRESERVATION GUIDELINE 14 Division for Archaeology and Historic Preservation Virgin Islands Department of Planning and Natural Resources NEW ADDITIONS TO HISTORIC BUILDINGS Historic districts in the Virgin Islands are continually chang- ing places, requiring constant, periodic alterations to their physical character. This and other guidelines recognize this factor and have been designed with the dynamic character of the districts, and of isolated historic properties as well, in mind. EH | ee | A r= INS bg ea Fa aaa aes kd Government House, Christiansted. While this building appears at first glance to be a single, unified building, in fact, it represents a istoric combina- tion of several private eapteg unified by additions. When replicatinghis- toric detail in an addition, the designer should ask --Does the addition fool the viewer into thinking the addition is original? Generally, a clear line between new and old should still be perceptible. Design Choices When considering new additions, two main choices face the designer or owner: either to attempt to create an older, more traditional appearance for the addition, or to design a new, more contemporary addition that is somehow "compatible" with the old in terms of form, massing, materials, and so on. In general, the first choice is often easier in that examples exist for comparison and new designs can be drawn from them. More historic-looking additions, however, are inherently deceptive and are often frowned upon in historic districts. Good new design is, therefore, ideal; but it is often difficult to accomplish. _ Simple details borrowed from historic buildin such as these can often be incorporated into new additions. If taking a lea from historic examples, the designer should generally try to simplify the details. MI S Hh id: Fil New additions can be either contemporary a) or traditional(right). Ad- ditions should generally be placed at the rear or sides of historic buildings and detract minimally from the main building. Details, such as roof pitch, wall and roof materials, window and door arrangement, can all help to tie an addition into the main building. Simple additions such as these can often accommodate new requirements such as kitchens and baths. Designers often attempt to imitate aspects of older build- ings, such as masonry arches or hipped roofs, but in carry- ing these features out in new materials -- reinforced con- crete instead of rubble stone, for example -- often create a very different appearance. Modern design also differs in many important details from Modern, glazed additions are accept- traditional design: window able on rear elevations. Again, con- ° : tinuities of roof shape and siding and door openings are dif- eran can help to tie the addition ferent, roofs are generally : flatter, materials are dif- ferent, relying mostly on con- crete or steel. The best solution, is probably to be as "low-key" as possible in a new design. Existing features such as massing, arrange- ment of doors and windows, and the roof pitch of the building, should be taken into account and incorporated into new addi- tions. Often details can be more contemporary -- meaning simpler -- in character, but these should still respect traditional design characteristics, often a simplification of existing details. Whether contemporary (modern) or historic in character, new additions should be placed at the side or rear of historic buildings. j t= 2. Location New additions to historic buildings should nearly always take place at the rear or at the side of existing struc- tures. Principal eleva- tions, or building fronts, are generally considered the most significant. Every effort should be made to retain the char- acter and appearance of the main elevation. New porches should follow the same icaaeg guidance as that set out for new ad- itions generally. FRONT ~ 7 t ) aes 4 (0 BALL Ee Lee Sth! Bt euven =u wii SIDE se creniet eee 3 |i. pee q tlh Pt. nit". Hi Additions to parapet-roofed buildings such as these two examples are highly discouraged. If additions are made, however, they should be set back significantly from the main plane of the facade and should not be visible from across the street. The style should contrast sufficiently with that of the original building to convey a distinction in age. Simply adding an addi- tional story to what was once a one-story building is generally not an ap- propriate solution. Roof-top Additions Roof-top additions to existing historic commercial buildings are generally discouraged in historic districts. Original build- ing shapes and heights are important to the character of all of the historic districts in the Virgin Islands. Periodic additions of stories, or new blocks over existing buildings detract sig- nificantly from the overall value and appearance of historic areas. If roof-top additions are required, every effort must be made to locate the addition in such a way as to minimally detract from the original building. Additions to parapet-roofed buildings should be set back sufficiently to prevent visibility from sidewalks opposite the building. The design should be simple and in-keeping with the existing historic building. Additions to non-historic buildings are more often ap- propriate. Consult the guideline for a new buildings, which applies more strictly to such proposals. To ensure the best possible work, always consult a profes- sional architect. Designs, moreover, must be brought before the Historic Preservation commission for review. Decks can be either "traditional" in character or more "contemporary". Always they should be added only to the rears of buildings. For further information contact: ~ Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.1. State Historic Preservation Office Dronningens Gade 71 & 72A j St. Thomas, Virgin Islands 00802 (340)776-8605 Tel (340)776-7236 Fax or Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.1. State Historic Preservation Office Fort Frederik Museum 198 Strand Street St. Croix, Virgin Islands 00840 (340)719-7089 Tel (340)719-8343 Fax Prepared by William Chapman Layout by Jeanne Strong (4-3 Avoid more modern uses of balusters and rails when adding decks. General- ly look to historic porches for precedent and inspiration for deck rail designs. PRESERVATION GUIDELINE 15 Division for Archaeology and Historic Preservation Virgin Islands Department of Planning and Natural Resources NEW BUILDINGS IN HISTORIC DISTRICTS The design of new buildings for historic districts is a complex and long-debated problem. Historic districts are rarely "frozen" places; periodic changes are inevitable and an- ticipated. The main concern is that new buildings relate, in terms of massing or scale, height, setback, and materials to the majority of existing historic buildings and, especially, to build- ings on adjacent sites. ings, or setbacks for upper stories. In some instances, higher stories should be relegated to the rear of lots to avoid changes in elevation along principal streets. ee | Height New buildings must conform with current Virgin Islands code regulations for maximum heights in specific zoning areas. In addition, new buildings in historic districts should conform with heights of surrounding structures, and not stand out as sig- nificantly higher (or lower). Steps should be taken to relate divisions marking stories to those of adjacent buildings. Win- dows, string courses (decorative molding), and cornices should be designed to match adjacent examples. If additional stories are necessary, various means of "masking" the difference should be explored, such as two stories sharing common window open- * Tn oon | i ns | Additional stories can sometimes be “com- z : — pressed" into conformity with existing eleva- _ Consider relegating addi- tions. This hypothetical ‘building (based on a tional stories to the rear of pow demolished earlier structure) compresses lots in order to preserve five stories into a height only slightly greater uniform streetscapes. than the 2-story building adjacent to if. Elements, such as arcades, windows, heights, cornices, moldings, and the rhythm of openings should all be used to integrate the historic buildings into the existing context. Lav, Wy AZ Massing/Scale New buildings should have comparable scale and massing to those around them. Enormous, bulky shapes are discouraged. Efforts should be made to break up the plane or facade or larger or longer buildings, in order that they might better relate to the size and scale of adjacent examples. A new building should respect its overall context. Note the new building: Setbacks New buildings must respect the existing setbacks of his- toric structures. New build- ings should not, for example, be recessed if adjacent build- ings face directly on the lot line or provide an arcade. Similarly, new. buildings should not extend beyond the line created. by other build- ings on the same street -- nor New buildings should conform to ex- should they encroach on isting setbacks. public rights-of-way. Materials/Colors New buildings should respect the materials and general "tex- tural" qualities of nearby buildings. Smooth or scored stucco, wood siding, corrugated metal, and brick are all common materials in Virgin Islands historic districts. Historic colors are outlined in a separate guideline. For the sake of continuity, every effort should be made to ensure compatibility of materials as well as colors. Design fi fh Respect existing colors, textures, and materials. Drawing, Pamela Gosner, 5 T chien} siddecencamesnss macs papeabese Bisiienseeitseeis TO ot er prbbeesems /5- 2 The design of new buildings is probably the most complicated issue. Generally, it is recommended that new buildings respect the overall character of historic examples without directly copy- . ing details. Wall planes, roof form or roof angles, materials, ratios of _ wall surface to win- Elements such as the size and placement of win- dow and door dows, the height of the first floor above grade, the openings , colors, roof shape and pitch, and the building’s orientation are probably the most important factors toconsider etc. can all be used when designing new buildings. as starting points for new design. The simple use of ar- ches, hipped roofs, or historic looking shutters alone is not enough to create a sense of continuity. Insome cases, particularly for modest buildings, more directly imitative designs can be more acceptable. Simple vernacular ("everyday") wood cottages and, especially, wood secondary buildings can often take their lead directly from historic ex- amples. Detailing, how- ever, should be kept plain, and "gingerbread" decora- tion especially should be avoided. There is a considerable amount of philosophical basis for even larger new buildings more directly im- itating historic examples as me) 9G well. Reconstructions of _Owners may wish to consider reproduc- known histor ic buildings is reconstruction, = oe ae buildings are intended to Peed. While some preser- imitate older ones, docu- aaa oconancien sean oe ee losses of significant historic buildings in approved; other designs the Virgin Islands can often help justify - : : such as approach. can be considered, as long as detailing, design, etc. closely conform with known historic examples. It should be re-emphasized that this practice is can be taken too far, but "historically-replicative" buildings will be considered by the commission. However, half-hearted or "inaccurate" replicative type buildings will not be accepted. a 4 il i rl it rath tS aS eo ie VY 4 ze 2s Simple vernacular (everyday) cottages, such as the am the left, can (and should) be reproduced when smaller structures are called for. Such buildin arly, are ideal for courtyard spaces and perimeter of lots. Simi a 2-story vernacular building -- especially when detailing is kept simple-can be justified for in-fill construction. The third example -- the 3-story building, might be justified in special instances. Generally, however, such a building by its very size and bulk would constitute a major addition to any historic district. Alternatives to obviously "replicative" details should be ¢ lored before accepting such a design. Finally, reproduction of an obvious "high-style” or fancy building should be avoided -- at least in historic districts. Such building: which copies in this instance an existing building, would compete withgenuinely historic buildings and therefore detract from the overall quality of a historic district. A “pared-down", modern building such as this can often ig soregpes many of the qualities of historic buildings without copying details. Such a solution should often be considered. New buildings on hillsides should respect the traditional pattern of development and not loom" too prominently over the district. These proposed build- — —— ings for Government Hill in Hillside sites, as found in Virgin Islands Charlotte Amalie clearly follow historic districts, require special considera- historic precedent in their tion. height, massing, and distribu- tion. Many parts of historic districts in the Virgin Islands now lack their historic density, as demonstrated by their drawing of the former Hill Street Urban Renewal Area in Frederiksted. New in-fill construction to fill the many gaps in the historic districts, is strongly encouraged by the Historic Preservation Commission. Demolition Demolition of documented historic buildings within historic districts is strongly discouraged by the Commission. In most instances, in fact, demolition is not approvable, unless a strong case can be made for the building’s poor physical condition or the impossibility of economic return. All plans for demolition must be accompanied by designs for proposed replacement ja" 2 buildings or other proposals. If demolition occurs, the building must be documented by drawings and photographs prior to the demolition. Architects Owners wishing to construct new buildings in historic districts are advised to hire trained architects for the preparation of their designs. Drawings and other details are a basic require- ment for review. For further information contact: Department of Planning and Natural Resources _ V.I. State Historic Preservation Office Dronningens Gade 71 & 72A St. Thomas, Virgin Islands 00802 (340)776-8605 Tel (340)776-7236 Fax or Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.I. State Historic Preservation Office Fort Frederik Museum | 198 Strand Street 3. St. Croix, Virgin Islands 00840 (340)719-7089 Tel (340)719-8343 Fax Prepared by William Chapman Layout by Jeanne Strong PRESERVATION GUIDELINE 16 Division for Archareology and Historic Preservation Virgin Islands Department of Planning and Natural Resources INTERIOR CHANGES Changes to building interiors are not generally regulated by the Historic Preservation Commission. However, proposed changes to courtyards as well as changes to portions of buildings directly visible from public walkways, such as the ground floors of retail businesses, can and will be reviewed by the Commission for appropriateness. Also, owners of historic buildings should recognize that their properties are also an important legacy. Every effort should be made to retain the original or historic plan and materials of historic buildings, even if these are located in private areas. fe Interior details, such as epee trim, ceilings, and floors, are often important to the value of historic buildings. While the istoric Preservation Commission q is primarily concerned with exteriors, changes to interiors which have an impact x = Satan em on exterior appearance and clearly visible changes within courtyards and within | a= visible ground floor spaces, are subject to Commission review. aed Plans Owners should respect the original or historic plans of historic A buildings. The Virgin Islands pos- : 4 sesses a number of significant plan — types or types of room arrangement. ee Efforts should be made to retain | el —t existing door openings and pas- ag sages, and avoid cutting up rooms for new requirements. Temporary Detailssuch as thisdecorative or movable partitions should be arch are enormously significant and should be carefully considered when smaller rooms are preserved by owners. required Visible areas in courtyards are subject to commission review. man Historic plans are significant to older properties. Whenever possible, owners should strongly consider retaining original or otherwise historic room arrangemens when undertaking major changes. : Decorative Details Decorative details, such as arched screens, molded door or window surrounds, original hardware, etc. should be retained whenever possible. eo "screens" such as these are a striking cultural legacy that should be valued. =I = = ] WL LL Doors and windows and decorative trim should be carefully preserved. Walls/Ceilings Existing wall treatments should be respected and repaired. Removal of plaster or vertical board panelling to expose rubble walls is strongly discouraged. (See the separate guideline on plaster-covered rubble walls). When materials are damaged, repairs "in-place" are recommended. Otherwise, replacement "in-kind" is an alternative approach. Wherever possible, ex- posed stud-walls should be kept open. The same recommen- dations hold for existing ceilings. oo) Se ol SAT inten Piank walls, and in this example, a Original interior walls, both plaster <: i aa i and Teil are important to a building's single inverted tray ceiling over the A separate rooms, are distinguishing history and should be preserved. Characteristics of this building. Retention of such details is strongly recommended by the Historic Preservation Commission. c =i A Nae Exposed rafters and stud walls are typical of man Virgin Islands buildings. Whenever possible, such details should be retained and/or repaired in place. For further information contact: Department of Planning and Natural Resources _ V.I. State Historic Preservation Office Dronningens Gade 71 & 72A St. Thomas, Virgin Islands 00802 (340)776-8605 Tel (340)776-7236 Fax or Department of Planning and Natural Resources V.1. State Historic Preservation Office Fort Frederik Museum 198 Strand Street St. Croix, Virgin Islands 00840 (340)719-7089 Tel (340)719-8343Fax Prepared by William Chapman Layout by Jeanne Strong